Hi there, I'm Attila Blade, a huge fan of the DIY Stirling and hot air engines. You are currently on the Blade's World channel's blog.
I made a lot of experiments in the past 20 years from the beer can engines to a nicely machined desktop gadgets also I worked in professional projects worldwide.
You will find here DIY projects, homemade Stirling engine tutorials and interesting experiments, monthly as possible.
THX any help!
I collected 30 pcs of them with 0,35mm gap between neighboring parts.
Molded the whole HX with two components polyurethane.
That was the biggest pain in the arse...
The engine's free piston is a 100 mm of a simple motocycle's rubber boots.
This is a simple solution for this stroke limit.
The self resonance frequency was near by 30-40 Hz,
so should compress a bit with an adjustable end for the best phase shift.
The regenerator is fine stainless steel mesh.
I collected them with 45˙ degrees different in every layer for the lower heat conduction.
The length was 30 mm
Fixed with bolts, threaded rod, PVC tubes
and the chiller was ready to use.
Yes it hasn't got cold side HX actually, because it was a prototype!
But no insulated around the cold side, so it is loaded via the PVC material from the outside.
The cold heat exchanger will be the next step. I'll update it as soon as possible!
This is a real LTD heat engine, because the engine works with low temperature different!
The engine start at 3-5 degrees different!
My engine's working range is 27-31 C
The key of the operation is a heat sensitive material.
This material is pretty sensitive for heat.
If we have a curved one then after heated up that material will straight or even concave.