Turn your Stirling engine into a car!

Hi there, BLADE is here again!

Today I'll show you a simple method, how you could turn your Stirling engine KIT

to a simple car if you want.

The car's basic is a nice little glass/aluminium body Stirling engine from

Engine DIY

The original Stirling engine has a DC generator with bright LED stripes,

also it could work as a heat pump, if we use the DC generator as a driver motor.

I made few little interesting experiment with this KIT,

so check it out first:

After I've got some e-mail to create something different from the KIT.

I thought about a car.

But I haven't got any toy car wheels, 

so I made it!

The car has soft drink can wheels with rubber ring surface

for a smoother run.

The wheels are great for any other toy car projects too.

I made an instructional tutorial video about the wheels

and included into my Stirling Engine Toy Car video

If you want to buy a Stirling Engine KIT for you

I could give you a 10% coupon code!

Use my link here:

http://bit.ly/2YOv4Wn

My exclusive coupon code for 10% discount: ED-BA

Special thanks to Engine DIY dot com

to support my efforts!

BLADE

A weird thermal lag engine/ heat pump

Hi folks,

BLADE is here again, because I made a small fast little thermal lag engine

to test my glass piston.

The little engine worked well, it riched the 50 Hz easily with the correct tension of a rubber rope.

If you want to check my video about this engine:

But today I thought about a heat pump with high frequency.

I wanted to see how cool down the end of this little engine.

The engine started to cool down, but not on the closed end

that's weird!

The engine hot side isn't changed as every normal heat engine if we mechanically drive them.

I've tried to drive it 1-50Hz but thte result was same.

The question is, how could I change the hot side to the cold side on my little heat pump?

Thanks any help!

BLADE

Perfect piston for your homemade Stirling engines

 Hi folks,

I've got lot's of questions about heat engine's power piston. 

I have a playlist with lots of different Stirling piston DIY tutorial video,

 what I built in the last few years on youtube:

Playlist of my DIY Stirling pistons

So, I've made different type of pistons for Stirling engines, 

but I never made a perfect glass piston for you.

But today I'll show you my new video with lots of easy steps

pictures and instructions.

 How to make a perfect low friction

also beautiful, easy to use power piston

for your desktop DIY, Homemade Stirling engines?

Check it out!

See You Soon!

BLADE

Magnetic propulsion drive LTD Stirling

Hi folks!

I made a little LTD Stirling engine with my open source magnetic drive system.

The mechanism works perfectly!

The engine could run fast as a JAXA Stirling,

but actually I created  some mistakes in the construction yet.

The cylinder and the glass piston was sticky somehow!

And the piston movement was limited too.

Anyway...

but the engine started with these bad parameters too!

This gives enormous power to continue my work on my way!

I won give up!

Here is a little video below.

Support my efforts with a simple video sharing, or link sharing on your community site please!

Magnetic Propulsion Drived Stirling Engine (Video)

Hi folks!

Do you remember my very old Stirling engine driving method?

YEP!

Last weekend I found an old but short video from my first prototype 

magnetic propulsion drived HTD Stirling engine.

That was a big suprise, 

I didn't remember any video from this engine!

:)

But here it is!

It was a bad construction, but it worked 4 full stroke and two other. :)

The engine wasn't cooled, so it wasn't a big suprise.

Share this video, and the driving method too

because it is an open source project!

Non patented driving mechanism!

And I believe the Butterfly effect 
also 
the 100th monkey theorys!

My older post HERE.

See You Soon!

BLADE

My new LTD Stirling with this driving mechanism!
HERE!

Self rotating LTD solar heat engine

Hey guys!

I wondered how viable a rotary heat engine with solar energy only.

The temperature different maximum 3 degrees at the moment what this engine use.

But the engine is working only 1 degrees too!

I was suprised in this afternoon when the sun is goes away from the sunflower engine, but that is works well, but slowly. It was a big suprise!

Outside was hot, so the solution was the radiant heat across the window glass what the engine is absorbed and the room was the "cold" side actually. 

Outside temperature was 38 degrees, the room temperature was 35. 

The engine arms moves slowly and somethimes I measured only 

0.8 degrees different between the sides!!!

Also works with angle.

I made a mimic plastic flower at 45 degrees.

And the full shadded one is a pretty unique:

SUPPORT MY EFFORTS WITH A SIMPLE VIDEO SHARING

or

use my paypal button on my YOUTUBE channel!

THANKS!

See You Soon!

BLADE

New DIY tutorial step by step video for a Solar LTD Puskás teeter heat engine

Hi guys,

I have received a lot of feedback via e-mail:

"How do you build it?"

"I need one, send me the parameters please!"

"Cool! Where is the tutorial video Blade?"

I finished with it last night, so the video is arrived!

Share this instructional video with your friends!

That is the primary help what you can do for me!

THANKS!

:)

LTD Puskás heat engine

Hi folks,

here is my new type 

Puskás teeter heat engine!

This is a real LTD heat engine, because the engine works with low temperature different!
The engine start at 3-5 degrees different!
My engine's working range is 27-31 C

The key of the operation is a heat sensitive material.

This material is pretty sensitive for heat.

If we have a curved one then after heated up that material will straight or even concave.

This is a salted peanuts bag's material.

Aluminium base coated with plastic.

The original Puskás water engine is here:

And the Hungarian blog:

Water engine

This engine use moisture for an expansion/contraction effect in paper material.

The paper base is cellulose what really sensitive for humidity.

If we can moisturising one side only than the paper fold in a curve.

The engine was my friend Simi112's (YT name) invention in 2006!

It works with water only.

Pretty suggestive little engine for tabletop.

My version is a real heat engine actually.

When the plastic material heated then 

the sheet from a curved shape goes to the straight

pretty fast!

After when it's cooled down then curved back as originally was.

So the teeter can unbalanced with it too! 

:)

Let's build one! :)

So easy to make!

This is a solar engine too, but it was a cloudy day in Hungary.

I used only a cup of hot water as "sun"!

If the heat different enough to make the unbalancer curves

then the heat engine start freely!

If the shadow, or clouds coming, 

than the engine stop and hold on the start position.

So cool! 

:)

And the real SOLAR LTD version works in sunrise:

Please share these videos with your friends!

Would you need one?

Would you need a DIY instruction video?

Share and vote this movie please!

Follow my blog

also

Subscribe my YT channel!

See You Soon!

BLADE

Thermoacoustic refrigeration part 2.

Hi folks!

This is the second step of my huge project of thermoacoustic refrigeration.

Today I'll show you my new engine's parts also the first test run and I'll draw the conclusions.

The engine is a standing wave type refrigerator.

Base parts:

- loudspeaker driver

- heat exchangers

- stack

- resonator

- amplifier

- PC, program

- digital thermometers

That's all!

My 180/120 W SAL XPRO 2060 loudspeaker is working in a closed
20 litres 250 mm diameter orange PVC tube box.

The other PVC tubes are 50 mm outside diameter.
The fittings and other parts dedicated for this diameter.
Easy to use them.

The heat exchangers from 0,4 mm holes, 0,063 mm wire, 75% relative open area copper mesh.

I stick together these with neutral silicon on a sticky tape base.
Layer by layer, nearly hole on hole.

That was a horrible slow and riski work.

:)

The stack was a rolled, parallel plate style stack with 0,4 mm gap. Length: 83 mm

Plastic sheet's 0,08 mm thick.

I used a new tech for spacing!
Sorry, I don't need to show it yet!
I hope you understand! :)
But this  technique is so different as sticked fishing line spacer.
It has more open area. :)

Amplifier is a KÖNIG 6000, 2x170W on 4 ohm.

Thermometers are HQ FT-10 stainless steel pin food thermometer,
the range of this thermometer is -50 to 300 C degrees.

The working frequency was 108 Hz,
sinus shaped wave
what I made with a small Hungarian language program they call it Jelgen.
So simple to use on any PC.

Resonator length was λ/2: 1,6 m

Experiment start at 22.7 degrees room temperature.
The hot side is going up pretty quikly, but after the cold side start to drop.
The cold side was loaded from the room across the copper heat exchanger,
 so the 17 degrees is good for first run.
The hot side hasn't enough cooling capacity, so there was a big temperature different.
Here is my video about this experiment,
Dont forget to vote it, and share it with your friends on your community sites please!

Much better performance with a new parallel plate stack:

Conclusions:

The cooling capacity isn't enough on the hot side, so I'll change the heat exchanger soon for a better one.
After I want to reach the magic 0 degrees celsius!
:)
The stack performance was pretty good, but I need to change the length of it, 
also I need to change it for my new type parallel and pin array stack, 
and I need to check the differents in this atmospheric engine.

Last performance on 27.05.2015. was only one degrees yet:

Later on...
A need to build a "Bellow Bounce" type refrigerator too, but not the infold version as Ben and Jerry's refrigerator.
My engine will be straight and I'll use a simple rubber boots accordion for bouncer.
It has lower frequency and the resonator length should be 1/50th of the wavelength!
Unbelievable thesis!

See You Soon!
BLADE

Standing wave thermoacoustic engine with mechanical resonator

What is the mechanical resonator?

This is a simple solid piston with adjustable spring, or back buffer volume.

The mechanical resonator can replace the acoustic resonator easily.

"Simulation calculations show that the mechanical resonator dissipates 40 % less 

acoustic power than the acoustic one." 

http://www.ecn.nl/docs/library/report/2010/m10072.pdf

Wouw! :)

How we can make one?

So simple but

some basic information first.

As you can see on this picture (FIG. 1), if you need to close a thermoacoustic standing wave engine, then the closed resonator part (right side) should be same length as left side, the sound generator base.

The whole system is a half wavelenght thermoacoustic engine.

The stack's center on the λ/8 exactly.

But what we can do with a mechanical resonator?

We can replace the whole resonator tube length( λ/4=4/8 of whole tube length) +  the volume between the cold heat exchanger to the resonator tube ( λ/16= 1/8 length).
So what we can do?
We can replace the whole length 5/8th part.
That is nearly 2/3 of full length!

After we get a short engine like this:

Where the 104 is a buffer volume. This volume help for the gas flow going trough the 112 stack

 also the 108-110 heat exchangers.

114 is the piston and the back side is a generator also "gas spring volume", or solid spring of course.

http://www.google.de/patents/US6578364

OK!
We know "everything" to make a simple TAMR.
:)

I made a short DIY video for you how do you make your first model from ordinary materials.

After I made another model from a big diameter test tube and accordion piston.
That was so speedy, strong and simple of course.

The engines frequency was lower than original because the weight/spring tension was different.

Not optimal, but the engines are works with an enough frequency for me.

:)

I hope you enjoyed!

Please share and vote my videos and subscribe my Youtube channel.

See you soon!

BLADE

Manson engine's modified as "Metronome"

Hi guys!

I start to make a new engine from my old Manson fan engine on the last weekend.

It was really rusty and it looks like something scrap there.

But the engine base was pretty good condition!

I was lucky!

:)

I took off the fan, also the crank and rod.

Cutted off the tube where was the valve originally.

After I connected to the pipe a 62 cm long

ID: 7 mm tube.

It was the load for the "Metronome" effect.

Do you remember for my earlier post?

Ok!

There is the working method.

Anyway...the engine works well.

The torque is pretty good 

and if I can change the tube with a spiral silicone tube 

then it will be much more compact. 

I need to make a cold side ventillation version

because then the engine could cooling down himself.
And later I can pressurise it!
:)

A weird hot air engine: "Metronome"

My new working office is so busy...sorry!

But the next post will be very interesting for you! :)

My friend Simi112's developed an engine what I called "Metronome".

The engine had a good torque, and the frequency was so stable.

He modified a water piston Ringbom engine.

The water piston is the power piston in a basic Ringbom constructions as you know.

Simi112 changed the pistons, and created a big diameter piston to move the displacer, 
and a smaller one with water in a tube for phase changing.
The engine works well!
(check below the video)

In March of 2014 I've seen an interesting engine on Dreisotech's youtube channel.
He called it Very Simple High Frequency Engine (VSHFE).
This engine is same as Metronome the only different is the phase changer piston,
 because the piston is air here.
This construction is faster than the water piston version.
When I showed the video to Simi112, we start to develope this construction
and we found a little suprise there.
The tube could be tune the engine's frequency
also we can tune up the whole engine to a resonant frequency,
where the amplitude is maximised, and the torque is great!
So this engine is a moving displacer thermoacustic engine too!
What???
How???
Is this possible?

But the cycle is really changed!
Not Stirling as in a Ringbom!

The tube has a greater resistance than the power piston and the engine works closely as a Manson engine.
The tube works like a gas-diode valve.
It looks like a fully open engine, but when the pressure increase in the cylinder, then the gas push out the power piston first, and after can „wide open” the gas-diode.

When the "valve" is "opened", the gas piston  start to move out with a great momentum and created a vacuumised cylinder after start to cool down the gas in the cylinder.
When the inward phase coming and the gas diode "open" again 
then the gas piston create a pressurised section in the cylinder before the gas start to heat up!

It is really interesting and strange.
Because the power piston has an increased power under the whole strokes as like Manson!!!
But when the "valve" is "open" 
then the gas piston pre-vacuumise, also pre-pressurise the cylinder in the working method.

The Manson has only pressure relief sections!

So...we have an engine with Manson cycle (more or less) with a bigger working pressure intervall.

I'll try to show you what I mean about the p-V diagram

Is it real?

What do you mean?

I created a video what's happening in the engine:

My friend Simi112/ Metronome Heat Engine

made videos from his experiments.

Check His Youtube Channel!

Please share this informations!

I hope somebody can help me about the engines p-V diagram,

because I'm not pretty shure in.

It looks like a new thermodinamical cycle

and a NEW hot air engine construction.

See you soon!
BLADE

Teeter, table seesaw Stirling engines

Simple engines for home design, or relax time.

Self-balanced water piston design

Solid piston design with adjustable balance weight