Marble Stirling with water piston balancer

Hi folks,

BLADE is here again!
Today I need to show you an old but unique construction from my earlier Stirling engine collection.
I combined the classical marble Stirling engine
and the "ROCKY" style water piston balanced LTD Stirling engine.

It could work as a flip-flop Stirling with marble.

The original picture from this site: http://www.oocities.org/hustierhof/MC_rocky.html

So, my engine is a "marble rocky" Stirling





See You Soon!

BLADE


Self rotating LTD solar heat engine

Hey guys!

I wondered how viable a rotary heat engine with solar energy only.
The temperature different maximum 3 degrees at the moment what this engine use.
But the engine is working only 1 degrees too!
I was suprised in this afternoon when the sun is goes away from the sunflower engine, but that is works well, but slowly. It was a big suprise!
Outside was hot, so the solution was the radiant heat across the window glass what the engine is absorbed and the room was the "cold" side actually. 
Outside temperature was 38 degrees, the room temperature was 35. 
The engine arms moves slowly and somethimes I measured only 
0.8 degrees different between the sides!!!



Also works with angle.
I made a mimic plastic flower at 45 degrees.


And the full shadded one is a pretty unique:



SUPPORT MY EFFORTS WITH A SIMPLE VIDEO SHARING
or
use my paypal button on my YOUTUBE channel!

THANKS!

See You Soon!
BLADE





New DIY tutorial step by step video for a Solar LTD Puskás teeter heat engine

Hi guys,

I have received a lot of feedback via e-mail:

"How do you build it?"
"I need one, send me the parameters please!"
"Cool! Where is the tutorial video Blade?"

I finished with it last night, so the video is arrived!
Share this instructional video with your friends!

That is the primary help what you can do for me!
THANKS!
:)


Thermoacoustic refrigeration part 2.

Hi folks!

This is the second step of my huge project of thermoacoustic refrigeration.
Today I'll show you my new engine's parts also the first test run and I'll draw the conclusions.

The engine is a standing wave type refrigerator.
Base parts:
- loudspeaker driver
- heat exchangers
- stack
- resonator
- amplifier
- PC, program
- digital thermometers
That's all!

My 180/120 W SAL XPRO 2060 loudspeaker is working in a closed
20 litres 250 mm diameter orange PVC tube box.



The other PVC tubes are 50 mm outside diameter.
The fittings and other parts dedicated for this diameter.
Easy to use them.

The heat exchangers from 0,4 mm holes, 0,063 mm wire, 75% relative open area copper mesh.
I stick together these with neutral silicon on a sticky tape base.
Layer by layer, nearly hole on hole.
That was a horrible slow and riski work.
:)



The stack was a rolled, parallel plate style stack with 0,4 mm gap. Length: 83 mm
Plastic sheet's 0,08 mm thick.



I used a new tech for spacing!
Sorry, I don't need to show it yet!
I hope you understand! :)
But this  technique is so different as sticked fishing line spacer.
It has more open area. :)

Amplifier is a KÖNIG 6000, 2x170W on 4 ohm.

Thermometers are HQ FT-10 stainless steel pin food thermometer,
the range of this thermometer is -50 to 300 C degrees.

The working frequency was 108 Hz,
sinus shaped wave
what I made with a small Hungarian language program they call it Jelgen.
So simple to use on any PC.

Resonator length was λ/2: 1,6 m

Experiment start at 22.7 degrees room temperature.
The hot side is going up pretty quikly, but after the cold side start to drop.
The cold side was loaded from the room across the copper heat exchanger,
 so the 17 degrees is good for first run.
The hot side hasn't enough cooling capacity, so there was a big temperature different.
Here is my video about this experiment,
Dont forget to vote it, and share it with your friends on your community sites please!


Much better performance with a new parallel plate stack:



Conclusions:

The cooling capacity isn't enough on the hot side, so I'll change the heat exchanger soon for a better one.
After I want to reach the magic 0 degrees celsius!
:)
The stack performance was pretty good, but I need to change the length of it, 
also I need to change it for my new type parallel and pin array stack, 
and I need to check the differents in this atmospheric engine.

Last performance on 27.05.2015. was only one degrees yet:


Later on...
A need to build a "Bellow Bounce" type refrigerator too, but not the infold version as Ben and Jerry's refrigerator.
My engine will be straight and I'll use a simple rubber boots accordion for bouncer.
It has lower frequency and the resonator length should be 1/50th of the wavelength!
Unbelievable thesis!

See You Soon!
BLADE








Rhombic drive VS. My 105° "L" yoke drive system

Hello guys!

It has long been thinking about a solution what modelling the rhombic-drive movement, 
without any complicated manufacturing.

I was sure it's possible!

First I changed the Ross yoke mechanism.
"T" to "L"
:)
Such an interesting alphabetical magic!

After I calculated the shafts positions, and the angles.
Next step was I made a rhombic drive in Solid Works 3D
and saved 90 frames/sec pictures.
I created my mechanism in same frame rated.
Here is the solution how I can see the similar thing also the different things
about this two methods.

If you interested my work click on my youtube channel.

Here is the latest movie, where I can show you this two drive mechanism in a video.
I changed the angle of my "L" shaped yoke last time 90 to 105 degrees,
because the phase angles was better.

What do you think about it?

Teeter, table seesaw Stirling engines

Simple engines for home design, or relax time.

Self-balanced water piston design



Solid piston design with adjustable balance weight